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Saturday, August 29, 2015

Mukainada Station


Mukainada Station is the nearest station to the Mazda Museum if you are visiting this popular attraction just outside Hiroshima city.

Mukainada Station, Hiroshima.

Mukainada Station is just two stops south of Hiroshima Station on the Sanyo or Kure lines. Note that express trains do not stop here and you will need to catch a local. To reach the museum take the exit with the convenience store, walk straight until you get to the main road with the Matsuda Hospital on your right. The Mazda Museum is 50 meters to your right on the opposite side of the road.

Mukainada Station, Hiroshima.

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Friday, August 28, 2015

Iwami Seaside Park


The Japan Sea Coast is usually considered the best place to swim in Japan. The Pacific Coast is much more populated and industrialized with Japan's major cities dotting the seaside down from Tokyo to Yokohama, through Shizuoka, Nagoya and Osaka.

Iwami Seaside Park, Shimane.

The Echizen Coast in Fukui Prefecture has some wonderful beaches as has Shimane and the offshore Oki Islands.

One excellent place to enjoy white sands and warm water is Iwami Seaside Park, 5km of beach between Hamada to Gotsu. If you are not enjoying the swimming and snorkeling from the white sands head for Aquas near Hamada, the largest aquarium in western Honshu and Aquas Land, a vast playground/amusement park popular with families with children.

Iwami Seaside Park is also popular with people driving north from Hiroshima. Visitors can camp or rent cabins near the beach. From Hiroshima take the Sanyo then the Chugoku Expressway and exit at Hamada I.C. From here it is less than a 15-minute drive to the beach on National Highway 9.

Express buses from the Shinkansen Exit of Hiroshima Station run to Hamada.

Iwami Seaside Park

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Saturday, August 22, 2015

Japan News This Week 22 August 2015


Japan News. Japan protests Russian PM's visit to disputed island

Nagoya 112-yr-old man world’s oldest
The Japan News

Japan has so many super old people that it can’t afford to give them special sake cups anymore
The Washington Post

Japan’s economy shrinks

Team Jamaica get Japanese send-off
Jamaica Observer

Smuggling bid ends with Fukuoka hospital removing 400 cannabis balloons from man's stomach

Last Week's Japan News on the JapanVisitor blog

The number of confirmed deaths by murder in Japan has been, on the whole, falling over the past few years, with 699 deaths by murder in 2004 and 370 in 2013, according to a Japanese police report.
Heisei 25 no hanzai jousei ("The State of Crime in 2013")

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Tuesday, August 18, 2015

Otani Honbyo


If you are in Kyoto mid-August during the Obon holiday period and are visiting the popular Kiyomizudera Temple in the south east corner of the city, try to make a short detour to see Otani Honbyo, a temple with adjoining graveyard that is lit with candles and lanterns at night during the Obon period. There are good views down over the city, especially at night.

Otani Honbyo, Obon, August, Kyoto, Japan.

Otani Honbyo contains the grave of Shinran (1173-1263), the founder of the Jodo sect of Japanese Buddhism along with around 15,000 other graves in this historic cremation and burial ground.

Otani Honbyo
6-514 Gojobashi Higashi


From Kyoto Station it takes about 20 minutes by bus to the Kiyomizu area. Take bus number #100 or #206 and get off at Kiyomizu-michi or Gojo-zaka. From Keihan Gojo Station it is a 20-minute walk. From Shijo-Kawaramachi, take the #207, #80, or #85 bus.

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Saturday, August 15, 2015

Japan News This Week August 15 2015


Japan News. Japan PM expresses 'utmost grief' over WW2 but no fresh apology

Volcanic alert raised for Sakurajima in Kagoshima
The Japan News

Japan emperor offers 'remorse' on WWII surrender anniversary
The Washington Post

Japan WW2 commemorations - in 60 seconds

Britain remembers VJ Day 70 years on
Daily Telegraph

Japan Statistics
Japan has perhaps up to 2 million Christians among its population of over 120 million. About half a million of Japan's Christians are Catholic. The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints has about 125,000 members in Japan, and the Salvation Army is very active in Japan.

Last Week's Japan News on the JapanVisitor blog

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Friday, August 14, 2015

A Walk Around Kyushu Day 71 Mimasaka to Hizennagano

A Walk Around Kyushu
Day 71, Mimasaka to Hizennagano
Sunday March 23rd, 2014

Today I have a cluster of three pilgrimage temples to visit, one of them near the top of a mountain. It's the last day of basing myself in Sasebo and therefore being able to walk with just a light pack. I studied the map last night for the best route to take and ended up deciding that there is no way to avoid zigzagging and I should be able to end up at a station where I can get back to my hotel in Sasebo one more time.

Toko-ji Temple, Kyushu, Japan.

I take the first train out of Sasebo and go one station past Kamiarita where I finished yesterday. There is not a cloud in the sky. The first temple of the day, Toko-ji, number 67 on the pilgrimage, is just a few minutes walk south of the station. It's a small, rural temple with the only noticeable thing being row upon row of jizo statues in faded red bibs, most with a multicolor windmill.

Across the road is a very curious shrine. Built on a rise that is all exposed rock, a series of empty terraces have been carved into the rock in front of the shrine. A signboard explains that this was an area where some of the Heike settled after their defeat and a dance performed annually at the shrine was created by them. I head back to the station and carry on north. To my left some fairly high mountains loom.

The next temple is near the top. The road leading up to it is on the north side so I take the small road that hugs the base of the hills. When I get round to the road there is a big stone torii over a path that heads up the mountain. This would be the shortest route up, but most probably the steepest, whereas the road will be longer but less steep. I will come down the trail and go up the road. Part way up is a temple on the right but I decide to check it out on my way down.

It's quite a climb, but as I've noted before, easier than anticipated. When I arrive at the temple, Saikomitsuji, I am surprised to find it open with someone tidying up. The guide book said it was an unmanned temple but I guess that it being a Sunday in o-higan something will be going on. A torii and steps lead up the mountain to the shrine on top but I decide against the extra climb. I am already at more than 450 meters and that’s enough climbing for the day. I head down the mountain along the trail and it's great to be off the roads and walking through trees.

The trail hits the road at the small temple I passed on the way up and I cross the small bridge to check it out. There are lots of statues with bright flower offerings and a small building, but a path up the mountain lined with yet more statues beckons me. I really didn't want to do any more climbing, but I started to climb anyway. I am glad I did. The path ended at a cliff face with fantastic view down over the surrounding countryside and carved into the cliff a giant 7 meter high relief of Fudo Myo.

Relief statue of Fudo Myo, Kyushu.

Beneath the statue is a huge polished steel circular mirror that I am guessing is facing towards the rising sun. Quite impressive and completely unexpected. I head back and carry on down the trail through the forest. I reach the valley pretty quickly and head off towards the next temple.

Not far from the base of the mountain I come to a big shrine with a lot of activity. Men in suits and women in kimonos are milling around. This is Kurokami Shrine, or rather Lower Kurokami Shrine. The Upper Kurokami Shrine is the one on top of the mountain. The ceremony everyone is here for is a Shinto style wedding.

Many people believe this is a traditional and ancient ceremony but its actually very modern and is based on the royal weddings of Europe. A little further along the road and I pass by a supermarket where I am able to get some lunch. I find temple 68, Mudo-in, at the base of the hills not far off the main road. There is a nice Fudo statue and some strange, weathered komainu, but otherwise just another small, rural temple.

Mudo-in priest, Kyushu, Japan.

However it seems that the priest's family are visiting and I am invited to sit in the shade and enjoy a cool drink. The priest's daughter or daughter-in-law speaks good English and she fetches out a photo of the priest's brother, also a priest, meeting with the Pope. The old guy is very proud of it.

I head off north and cross over the hills to reach a river that runs eventually into the Matsuura River which empties into the sea at Karatsu which will be my destination tomorrow. I follow the rail line a couple of stations and by mid afternoon reach Nagano where I get on the train back to Sasebo. It's a beautiful day and I have a few hours left to do some exploring of shrines and temples in Sasebo.

Jake Davies

A Walk Around Kyushu Day 70

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Monday, August 10, 2015

More Kokeshi


In May of this year I visited Miyagi Prefecture and wrote a post here about the humble beginnings of my kokeshi collection. At the time of course I pretty much knew zilch about kokeshi - I simply liked the look of the craft. Since then, however, I have made the effort to educate myself. To that end I purchased two books dedicated to the art of kokeshi.

Kokeshi: From Tohoku With Love

Kokeshi: From Tohoku with Love by Manami Okazaki is concerned primarily with the production of kokeshi and contains interviews with twenty kokeshi craftspersons who live and work in the Tohoku region.


Kokeshi Book by Yousuke Jikuhara is a delightful pictorial filled with examples of the varying kokeshi styles. Although nearly all the text is Japanese, the artists' names are printed in English.

I found the most information about kokeshi on a blog called "Kokeshi Adventures." It is written by a kokeshi aficionado named John who has traveled across Japan visiting kokeshi artists, onsens, shops, and museums, and attending special kokeshi events.

Kokeshi Adventures Blog.

He has a real treasure trove of knowledge within his pages. If you are interested in this charming folk art, I recommend reading John's blog. And if you are visiting Japan this September of 2015, the biggest and longest-running kokeshi festival in Japan will be held at Naruko Onsen in Miyagi Prefecture on September 4th, 5th, and 6th.

More Kokeshi.

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Sunday, August 09, 2015

Japan News This Week 9 August 2015


Japan News.
Hiroshima: Japan remembers atomic bombing, 70 years on

Nakasone: Japan’s war in Asia simply aggression
The Japan News

Panel says Japan falls short on its World War II amends
Boston Globe

Japan's part-timers entering era of 1,000-yen wages
Nikkei Asian Review

Support for Japanese leader Abe drops after security bills
Yahoo News

Japan: gov't to send high level delegation to Iran

Centuries-old camphor holds Japan's biggest tree house

Last Week's Japan News on the JapanVisitor blog


Japan has possibly up to about 2.5 million Christians out of a population of about 127 million. About 500,000 of Japan's Christians are Catholics. The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints (Mormons) has about 127,000 members. The Salvation Army is a pervasive presence in Japan with over 1,100 full-time employees.

Sources: Catholic Hierarchy.org Wikipedia: Protestantism_in_Japan mormonnewsroom.org

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Saturday, August 08, 2015

Nagasaki Atomic Bombing Anniversary 2015

長崎, 原子爆弾

Tomorrow, August 9th, is the 70th anniversary of the atomic bombing of Nagasaki, the second city in Japan after Hiroshima, three days earlier to be attacked and destroyed by a nuclear bomb dropped by the American Air Force during World War II.

Nagasaki Atomic Bombing Anniversary, Nagasaki.

The Nagasaki bomb effectively ended the Pacific War, which had begun with the attack on Pearl Harbor by Japanese forces on December 7, 1941.

This year the anniversary has extra significance, not just as the 70th since the end of World War II, but also against a rising tide of nationalism within the government of Prime Minister Shinzo Abe and his LDP party.

There is unease among Japan's neighbors, namely South Korea and China, that Abe will not offer the standard statement of apology to mark the 70th anniversary of the end of World War II on August 14, the date Emperor Hirohito's decree to surrender was heard on the radio in Japan.

The day will be marked by solemn memorial services in Nagasaki, including an annual address by the Mayor of Nagasaki as he delivers a Peace Declaration to the World.

A solemn prayer is held at 11.02am, the exact time of the bombing and the mayor of Nagasaki will repeat his pleas for a nuclear-free Japan, against a backdrop of nuclear reactors being given permission to resume operation following the meltdown of a reactor in Fushima following the earthquake and subsequent tsunami on March 11, 2011.

Friday, August 07, 2015

Settling down in Japanese: the verb sueru


The Japanese verb sueru 据える。
The Japanese verb sueru

If you've been in Japan for any length of time, you'll know how incredibly important the idea of home is to the Japanese. The idea of a permanent home is even built into Japan's administrative system by way of the koseki household registration. The koseki grounds each Japanese person in a family at a particular "home" address, with the actual addresses at which the often scattered members may live being considered provisional - until the day a family member marries and starts his own koseki somewhere else.

And foreigners who live in Japan are, first and foremost, seen as being "away from home." They must be "homesick" and are, by definition, unsettled (and quite often unsettling!)

In other words, "being at home," "rootedness," "being on one's own territory" are crucial concepts to the Japanese.

There's a word that expresses this sense of focus, attachment and groundedness: sueru ("soo-eh-roo"). Here we're going to look at a few uses of sueru in everyday Japanese.

sueru means, at its simplest, to put, set, place or lay in position. The example sentence in Jim Breen's WWJDIC dictionary goes:
chuo ni wa tsukue ga suerarete, akai kawabari no kaiten isu ga soete atta.
"A desk stood in the centre, with a red leather swivel chair."
Here the passive form of sueru, suerareru, is used, so a more literal translation would be:
"A desk was placed in the center, accompanied by a red leather swivel chair."

That's the basic meaning. Now let's look at some more colorful uses of sueru.

To fix your eye on someone is misueru 見据える, the mi being for "look" and the sueru standing for "fix."

To really glare at someone and stare them down is niramisueru 睨み据える, the nirami meaning "glare" and the sueru adding an additional, somewhat grim, "planted there to stay there" element to it.

Another combative use of sueru is in the phrase:
灸を据える kyuu o sueru
meaning "to rake over the coals, chastise, roast." Literally it describes the act of moxibustion, i.e., holding a burning moxa (or, kyu) to someone's skin, but it is used much more often in this figurative sense of "grilling" someone. The image here that springs to mind is of a torturer purposefully applying a red hot poker to a certain spot, the key idea being intentional placing, the same way as in branding cattle, for example..

To continue the violence, there is the word kirisueru 切り据える, literally "cut-and-place"—meaning to cut down an enemy (with one's sword), the sueru adding a sense of fatal intent and purposefulness to the act of cutting.

Yet, there are sueru things you can do for those you love and respect, as well. For example, if your boss graces you with a visit you would ボスと上座に据える bosu o kamiza ni sueru: sit the boss in the seat of honor. Here "sit" can be more literally translated as "place" or "ensconce."

Finally, there are quite a few sueru things you can do with various body parts!

To start with a very straightforward one: shiri (more usually coupled with the honorific o: o-shiri) means one's "backside," so shiri o sueru 尻を据える means to "plant your ass," i.e., sit down.

koshi means your back, and koshi o sueru 腰を据える means to settle down to doing something, putting all your energies into something (for the long haul). The image that comes to mind here is of the pose often encountered in socialist statuary, of the hero, one foot in front of the other, shoulders thrown back and all forward impetus coming from his lower back, which is planted there. A related meaning, is simply to settle down or ensconce yourself somewhere.

hara means belly, and hara o sueru 腹を据える means to make up your mind, commit yourself to a decision, set yourself to a course of action. This one doesn't work on the English speaker's mind so readily, but I guess once you've come to a decision you've lost sleep over and hummed and hahed for days over, you are then entitled to then stand there, hands on hips, and feel the full weight of your gut that now hangs there in a solid state of assuredness, given up at last, after all that tossing and turning, to the gravity of certainty.

kimo means liver and, as in the English "lily livered," the liver in Japanese is traditionally the seat of the will. So kimo o sueru 肝を据える, or to "put your liver into it" predictably means to prepare yourself for the worst and determinedly embark on a course of action.

Kimo o suete Nihongo o benkyo shiyo yo!

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